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  • Home
  • Lawn Programs
    • Basic
    • Classic
    • Premier
  • Spray Programs
  • Flea Tick Mosquito
  • Other Services
  • Pesticide Labels
  • FAQ
  • Contact
  • Premier Spring Seeding
  • Premier Crabgrass Prevent
  • Premier Late Spring
  • Premier Early Summer
  • Premier Summer Check-Up
  • Premier Late Summer
  • Premier Fall Seeding
  • Premier Late Fall
  • Premier Late Spring
  • Classic Crabgrass Prevent
  • Classic Early Summer
  • Classic Mid-Summer
  • Classic Fall Seeding
  • Classic Late Fall
  • Basic Crabgrass Prevent
  • Basic Early Summer
  • Basic Mid-Summer
  • Basic Fall Service
  • Basic Late Fall

CLASSIC SPRING SEEDING SERVICE

What We Did Today

Today we performed your Classic Spring Seeding Service, which is designed to give your lawn an early boost and start thickening it before summer. During this visit, your technician:

  • Opened the soil with a spike aerator to create small channels, so air, water, nutrients, and seed can reach the root zone more easily.
     
  • Overseeded the lawn with a premium grass seed blend, using sun-tolerant mixes in open areas and shade-tolerant mixes where needed.
     

This service is meant to improve and thicken an existing lawn. It will not fully repair large bare or heavily damaged areas—those spots usually need fresh topsoil and possibly additional work, which we can quote separately if needed.

What Products Were Applied

For your Premier Spring Seeding, we used a combination of:

  • Spike Aeration to open the surface of the soil.
     
  • Premium cool-season grass seed blends selected for Long Island conditions, with different mixes for sun and shade to help your lawn fill in more evenly.

How To Care For Your Lawn Now

Your care over the next few weeks has a big impact on how well this seeding performs.

Watering

  • Begin watering within 24–48 hours of the service. At minimum before it is cut.
     
  • Keep the top ½ inch of soil consistently moist, not muddy.
     
  • Use light, frequent waterings rather than one long soaking. If you see puddling or runoff, reduce the time or break it into shorter cycles.
     
  • Morning watering is best between 3am and 9am; avoid frequent late‑evening watering, which can encourage disease.
     

Mowing

  • Continue mowing as needed, but keep the mower set high (around 3–3.5" or higher).
     
  • Avoid cutting more than ⅓ of the grass blade at a time.
     
  • Make sure mower blades are sharp, especially once new seedlings appear.
     

Foot Traffic & Pets

  • Try to limit heavy traffic on newly seeded areas—no repeated running, sports, or dog paths on the same spots if you can help it.
     
  • The more you baby the lawn now, the thicker it will become later.

What To Expect Next

Right after seeding, your lawn may look almost the same. That’s normal. Here’s what you can expect:

  • Seed doesn’t germinate by calendar date—it waits for soil temperature. In early spring, it may sit quietly in the soil until conditions are warm enough.
     
  • Over the following 3–5 weeks (once conditions are right), those seedlings will thicken and blend into the existing turf with proper watering and mowing.
     
  • Areas that were already very bare or lacking good soil may fill in more slowly or remain thin and bare; those usually require topsoil and additional repair.

Fequently Asked Questions about the Premier Spring Seeding

Most lawns start to show new seedlings within 3–5 weeks after the soil is warm enough, not necessarily 3–5 weeks from the service date. Early in the season, seed may simply wait in the soil. Once conditions improve, you’ll see light green blades appear and gradually fill in. 


Spring Seeding thickens existing turf but doesn’t fully fix areas that are bare dirt, heavily damaged, or missing good topsoil. Those spots often need topsoil and additional repair work beyond overseeding. Please contact us with any concerning areas.


Aim for soil that feels like a damp sponge, not a mud puddle. Light watering once or twice a day at first is usually better than one long, heavy soaking. 


You can mow your lawn as needed, but keep the mower set high and avoid mowing when the soil is very wet. Once the new grass reaches mowing height, you can mow over it—just be sure your blades are sharp and you’re not scalping the lawn. 


Light use is fine, but try to minimize heavy traffic on newly seeded areas for the first few weeks. Repeated play or pet activity in the same spots can damage new seedlings before they’ve had a chance to root.


Yes, it is normal because no weed control was applied to protect grass seed. Spring is also weed season. We balance weed control with protecting new grass, which means we may not spray everything aggressively right away. Upcoming visits in your program are designed to address weeds as the new turf strengthens. 


Yes. Spring Seeding helps your lawn look better earlier in the year helping the damage the turf took over the winter. Fall Seeding help replace damaged turf from the summer months and gives the most long‑term improvement in thickness and overall quality. 


Yes, In newly seeded areas, we have to be more careful with crabgrass prevention because many pre‑emergent products will also block grass seed. Your Premier program is designed with this in mind, we use a seed safe pre-emergencet  and we use later visits and spot treatments to keep weeds in check. 


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  • Premier Spring Seeding
  • Premier Crabgrass Prevent
  • Premier Late Spring
  • Premier Early Summer
  • Premier Summer Check-Up
  • Premier Late Summer
  • Premier Fall Seeding
  • Premier Late Fall
  • Premier Late Spring
  • Classic Crabgrass Prevent
  • Classic Early Summer
  • Classic Mid-Summer
  • Classic Fall Seeding
  • Classic Late Fall
  • Basic Crabgrass Prevent
  • Basic Early Summer
  • Basic Mid-Summer
  • Basic Fall Service
  • Basic Late Fall